Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist

Twelve places to drop into from a hotel in the middle of Melbourne, Tuesday evening to Thursday. What's open on which day, how long to allow, what it costs, and how to get there on the free trams.

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — featured

After a week in Tasmania, the trip ends with three days in Melbourne and no schedule. This page is what we're working from: twelve places within reach of the hotel, which days they're open, how long to allow and what they cost. When there's a gap, pick one. It isn't a list to get through.

The base is Space Hotel, 380 Russell St, at the top of the city centre and inside the Free Tram Zone, so most of this is a walk or a free tram ride away. For the Tasmanian end of the trip, the companion guide is Hobart anytime.

Walking times are from the hotel. Hours and prices were checked on the places' own pages, or the City of Melbourne's listings, on 27 September 2026, unless marked otherwise. Things change, so check before you go.

The map

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — featured

The big three in gold, the rest in red; the inset is the few blocks around the hotel. Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors (ODbL).

When

Most places here close at 5 pm, and that shapes each day.

  • Tuesday evening — We reach the hotel about 5, when almost everything has shut. Still open: the State Library until 6, Chinatown for dinner, and Lygon Street
  • Wednesday — Everything below except Queen Victoria Market, which is closed on Wednesdays. It's the only one of our three days that South Melbourne Market is open, 8:00–16:00: a morning there, then the NGV, by Route 1 back up St Kilda Rd. The museum, the gallery and the gardens are all open by 10. My sister leaves for the airport about 17:30
  • Thursday — Check-out is 10:00 and the train home is in the evening. Everything is open except South Melbourne Market, including Queen Victoria Market until 3. Rain was forecast (see Weather), so indoor places are the better bet

Tuesday, as it went

Tuesday, from the café at Hobart Airport to dinner. The places we passed on the way are pictured under their numbers below: Fitzroy Gardens (2), Chinatown (5) and Federation Square (8).

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — A takeaway coffee with a heart of froth beside a crumb-topped muffin on a café t

Coffee and a muffin at Hobart Airport, before the flight.

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — Tidal flats and low islands of saltmarsh in an inlet, with green farmland and dr

Tasmania from the plane: saltmarsh islands in a tidal inlet, farmland and low hills behind.

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — Suburbs of Melbourne from the air, a golf course along a creek, sports ovals and

Melbourne's suburbs from the window on the way in: a golf course along a creek, sports ovals and a blue athletics track.

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — Container ships at a big port on a river, stacks of containers, freeways and a r

The container docks on the Yarra, with freeways and a racecourse behind. The Port of Melbourne is the largest port for containerised and general cargo in Australia.

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — A pavement artist in a red shirt kneeling over a colourful chalk-pastel portrait

A pavement artist at work on a busy footpath in the city centre.

Dinner was dumplings and mapo tofu at Shandong Mama, 7/200 Bourke St.

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — A black plate of boiled dumplings on a dark table

Boiled dumplings.

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — A black plate of dumplings, some pan-fried on one side, with a small dish of chi

Pan-fried dumplings, with chilli oil.

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — A white bowl of mapo tofu, cubes of tofu in a red chilli sauce, a spoon at the s

And mapo tofu.

The big three

If there's only time for a few things, make it these.

1. Melbourne Museum

Allow 2–3 hours · Open 9:00–17:00 daily · Cost adult price not confirmed (sources say $15–18) · From the hotel 14 min walk · Walking directions

Wondrous Planet; the Gondwana Garden, with Horridus the Triceratops; the living rainforest; Phar Lap; and the Bunjilaka Aboriginal Cultural Centre.

Next door are the Royal Exhibition Building (1880), where the first federal parliament sat in 1901, now World Heritage-listed, and the Carlton Gardens, free.

2. Fitzroy Gardens

Allow 1.5–2 hours · Open Conservatory 9:00–17:00; Cooks' Cottage 10:00–16:00, last entry 15:45; the gardens themselves always (not confirmed) · Cost gardens and Conservatory free; Cooks' Cottage $8.20 · From the hotel 22 min walk · Walking directions

Cooks' Cottage was built in Yorkshire in 1755 by Captain Cook's parents, and shipped here brick by brick in 1934. The Conservatory's spring display is schizanthus. Look out, too, for the Fairies' Tree, a red gum carved by Ola Cohn in the 1930s, the Model Tudor Village and the River God Fountain (1862).

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — A small brick cottage with a steep tiled roof and chimney behind a wrought-iron

Cooks' Cottage in Fitzroy Gardens after dark on Tuesday, long after it shut. Captain Cook's parents built it at Great Ayton in Yorkshire in 1755; it was taken down brick by brick, shipped to Melbourne and reopened here in October 1934.

3. NGV International

Allow 2–3 hours · Open 10:00–17:00 daily · Cost general entry free; Cartier $43, timed tickets · From the hotel 26 min walk · Walking directions

Australia's oldest public gallery, across the river on St Kilda Rd. Cartier, this winter's big exhibition, ends on 4 October, so this is its last week, and for the final days the NGV has extended its hours: on Thursday 1 October, Cartier is open 9:00–17:00 (checked on the NGV's page on 29 September). Also ticketed: Ragnar Kjartansson, Mercy.

What the gold paid for — A huge black bronze thumbs-up on a stone plinth beside the NGV's stone wall, a C

David Shrigley's Really Good (2016), the seven-metre bronze thumbs-up on the NGV International forecourt, photographed on Wednesday.

What the gold paid for — A long pool of fountains in front of the NGV's high stone wall, a coiled black s

The moat along the NGV's wall, fountains playing.

Also

Numbered as on the map.

4. State Library Victoria

Allow 45 min · Open 10:00–18:00 daily · Cost free · From the hotel 5 min walk · Walking directions

The domed La Trobe Reading Room. Open until 6, so it's the one big sight still open on Tuesday evening. The dome's levels 5 and 6 are closed for now.

5. Chinatown and the Chinese Museum

Allow 1 hour · Open museum 10:00–16:00 · Cost Chinatown free; museum $17 · From the hotel 7–8 min walk · Walking directions

Little Bourke St, one block south of the hotel. The museum tells the story of Chinese Australians since the gold rush.

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — Little Bourke Street at dusk, red lanterns strung across the street, restaurants

Little Bourke Street in Chinatown at dusk on Tuesday, red lanterns strung across the street. Chinatown dates from the 1850s gold rush; Wikipedia calls it the longest continuous ethnic Chinese settlement in the Western world.

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — Parliament House lit blue at night, its colonnade and lamp standards glowing, fl

Parliament House, at the top of Bourke Street on Spring Street, lit blue after dark: a block from the Spring Street end of Chinatown.

6. Queen Victoria Market

Allow 1–1.5 hours · Open Tuesday and Thursday 6:00–15:00; closed Wednesday · Cost free · From the hotel 12 min walk · Walking directions

It has shut by the time we arrive on Tuesday, so Thursday morning is the one chance. The winter night market has finished.

7. Old Melbourne Gaol

Allow 1.5 hours · Open 10:00–17:00, arrive by 15:30 · Cost $38 ($30 for under-30s) · From the hotel 3 min walk · Walking directions

Across the road from the hotel. The audio guide comes in English and Mandarin.

8. Federation Square: ACMI and NGV Australia

Allow 1–1.5 hours · Open both 10:00–17:00 · Cost both free · From the hotel 18 min walk · Walking directions

ACMI's Story of the Moving Image, and NGV Australia's free shows (the Margaret Preston retrospective is $35). Walk down Russell St: the Swanston/Flinders corner is blocked by works.

Melbourne anytime — a base, not a checklist — Flinders Street Station at night, its dome and clock tower lit blue, a crowd cro

Flinders Street Station lit blue on Tuesday night, across the corner from Federation Square. The first station on the site opened in 1854; the present building was essentially finished by mid-1909.

9. Laneways and arcades

Allow 1 hour · Open always · Cost free · From the hotel 14–18 min walk · Walking directions (to Degraves St)

Hosier Lane for street art, Degraves St and Centre Place for cafés, and the Block Arcade and Royal Arcade.

10. Royal Botanic Gardens and the Shrine

Allow 2 hours · Open gardens 7:30–17:30; Shrine 10:00–17:00 · Cost free · From the hotel 40 min walk, or a tram · Public transport directions

A free guided garden walk runs at 10:30, Tuesday to Sunday; booking essential. Tours of the Shrine of Remembrance run on the hour.

11. Lygon Street, Carlton

Allow 1–2 hours · Open evenings · From the hotel 20 min walk · Walking directions

Carlton's Italian cafés and restaurants, and one of the few answers to Tuesday evening.

12. South Melbourne Market

Allow 1–1.5 hours · Open Wednesday 8:00–16:00; closed Tuesday and Thursday · Cost free to wander · From the hotel about 35 min by tram · Public transport directions

Running since 1867: fresh produce, deli, meat and seafood, cafés. Wednesday is the only day it's open while we're here. Route 96 from Bourke St; the details are under Getting around. Checked 29 September.

What the gold paid for — A green-and-white tram stopped at a platform in a leafy cutting, passengers walk

A tram at Stop 127, South Melbourne Market,, photographed on Wednesday.

What the gold paid for — A pastry counter with two puff pastries and rows of dark chocolate cakes dusted

Pastries at a stall inside the market: ham and cheese puff $8, mushroom puff $7, baby chocolate cake $5, chocolate crumble cake $12.

Teacher discounts

Only one real deal, and it's for me only, not my sister.

Museums Victoria "Museum Teachers" card. Free general entry to Melbourne Museum and the Immigration Museum for Victorian teachers. Sign up online first (it's free); the digital card comes by email. At the desk, show the card, photo ID and your VIT registration card. It doesn't cover touring exhibitions or Royal Exhibition Building tours, and it doesn't cover a companion. Not confirmed on Museums Victoria's own pages, which block automated checks: confirm when you sign up.

NGV. No teacher price for Cartier ($43). An NGV teacher membership is $95 a year: not worth it for one visit.

Old Melbourne Gaol. No teacher rate, but under-30s pay $30 instead of $38.

Cooks' Cottage, the Chinese Museum, the zoo. No teacher rate for a personal visit. The zoo's free teacher visit needs a school excursion booking.

Royal Exhibition Building dome tour. $29, tours at 10:00 and 14:00, booking essential on 13 11 02. Not confirmed on the museum's own page.

Getting around

Free Tram Zone. The hotel is inside it. Trams within the city centre are free: don't touch on or off.

City Circle tram, route 35. Free heritage trams round the city centre, clockwise, about every 12 minutes, 9:30–17:00.

Outside the free zone, fares are half price until 1 January 2027, capped at $5.70 a day. That includes V/Line, so it covers Thursday's train home too. Melbourne Museum's tram stop on Nicholson St is outside the free zone.

To South Melbourne Market, also outside the free zone: Route 96 from Bourke St/Russell St (Stop 7, about 700 m from the hotel) to South Melbourne Market (Stop 127) takes about 19 minutes, and the stop is about 90 m from the market door. About 35 minutes door to door.

Between the market and the NGV: Route 1 runs along St Kilda Rd between Arts Precinct/St Kilda Rd (Stop 14), by the NGV, and Park St/Cecil St (Stop 25), 8–12 minutes, then a five-minute walk along Cecil St to the market. Towards the market, take it in the direction of South Melbourne Beach. Walking, it's about 2 km, 27 minutes. Yarra Trams listed no disruptions to routes 1 or 96 for Wednesday 30 September (checked 29 September).

Tap and go. A bank card, phone or watch now works on trains and trams (full fare only; ABC News, June 2026). myki still works.

To the airport. SkyBus from Southern Cross, $25.90 one way, every 10–15 minutes: just turn up. Southern Cross is about 30 minutes' walk or a free tram ride from the hotel. A taxi or rideshare takes about 30 minutes (fare not published).

Weather

Much warmer than Hobart. The Bureau of Meteorology's forecast issued at 4:27 pm on Sunday 27 September had Tuesday partly cloudy, 11–24 °C; Wednesday cloudy and windy, 17–23 °C with a possible afternoon shower; and Thursday wet, 17–24 °C, with showers, a possible thunderstorm and 8–20 mm of rain. Forecasts change, so check the current one on the morning: BoM, Melbourne.

Good to know

Victorian school holidays run to 4 October, so the museums will be busy. Go early.

Daylight saving starts on Sunday 4 October, after the trip, so there's no clock change while we're here.

The short version

  • Tuesday evening — The State Library, open until 6, then dinner in Chinatown or on Lygon Street
  • Wednesday — South Melbourne Market in the morning (Route 96), then Route 1 back up St Kilda Rd to the NGV. Queen Victoria Market is closed
  • Thursday — Queen Victoria Market, open until 3. If it rains: the NGV (Cartier 9:00–17:00, its last week), Melbourne Museum or the Old Melbourne Gaol
  • By 5 pm — Almost everything has shut. The State Library stays open until 6
  • Across the road — The Old Melbourne Gaol, 3 min walk
  • Getting about — Trams in the city centre are free. Outside it, fares are half price, capped at $5.70 a day

Sources, checked 27 September 2026 unless marked: City of Melbourne What's On (Fitzroy Gardens, Cooks' Cottage, the Conservatory, Melbourne Museum); NGV (plan your visit, exhibitions, Cartier, tickets, membership; extended Cartier hours checked 29 September); State Library Victoria; Chinese Museum; Queen Victoria Market; South Melbourne Market (hours, getting here, history; 29 September); Old Melbourne Gaol; ACMI; Royal Botanic Gardens Victoria; Shrine of Remembrance; Museums Victoria (Museum Teachers, via search listings of its pages); Melbourne Zoo; Yarra Trams (Free Tram Zone, City Circle; routes 1 and 96 checked 29 September); vic.gov.au (half-price fares); ABC News (tap and go); SkyBus; Melbourne Airport; Bureau of Meteorology. Walking times from OpenStreetMap routing. Photo captions, added 30 September: Wikipedia (Chinatown, Melbourne; Cooks' Cottage; Flinders Street railway station; Parliament House, Melbourne; Port of Melbourne); NGV (David Shrigley, Really Good).